Hilo surprised me on my first visit. I’d heard “it rains constantly” and braced for something miserable. What I found was an 80-foot waterfall five minutes from the center of town, a farmers market selling the best tropical fruit I’d ever eaten for two dollars a piece, and a downtown of vintage storefronts where the pace was so genuinely unhurried that I stayed three days instead of one. The rain falls fast and warm, usually for 20 minutes, then the sun comes out and everything smells like flowers.
Hilo is the Big Island’s eastern soul — a working town of 45,000 people that has never been taken over by resort development and seems entirely unbothered by that fact. The residents are a mix of Native Hawaiian, Filipino, Japanese, and Portuguese ancestry, and the food culture reflects all of it simultaneously. Plate lunch here costs $8 and comes with two scoops of rice, a scoop of mac salad, and a protein that varies by day. Cafe 100 invented the loco moco in 1946 — rice, hamburger patty, fried egg, brown gravy — and they still serve it for under $7.
What anchors Hilo on any Big Island itinerary is geography. It sits 45 minutes from Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park, which makes it the best base for exploring the most active volcanic landscape in the world. It sits at the base of Mauna Kea, which means the summit stargazing is just an hour away. And it sits at the center of the Hamakua Coast, a 60-mile stretch of cliff-lined highway with waterfalls visible from the road.
The Hilo Farmers Market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings is the finest in the state — not the most glamorous, but the most genuinely local and most stocked. Over 200 vendors spread across two blocks near Mamo Street. I’ve eaten my way through Thai, Filipino, Hawaiian, and Japanese food stalls in one morning here for under $20 total. The fresh pineapple cut on the spot, the coconut water drunk straight from the nut, the macadamia nuts still warm from roasting — this is the best grocery shopping in Hawaii.
The Arrival
Hilo welcomes you with rain that makes everything green and an 80-foot waterfall five minutes from the airport. This is the real Hawaii that most tourists miss entirely.
Why Hilo should be on your Big Island itinerary
Most visitors to the Big Island fly into Kona and stay on the sunny, dry west coast. That’s a perfectly reasonable choice. But those who split their trip — a few days in Kona, a few in Hilo — come away with a fundamentally more complete understanding of what this extraordinary island actually is.
Hilo is the wet side, the lush side, the historically and culturally Hawaiian side. It receives 130+ inches of rain annually, which feeds its waterfalls and its legendary agricultural richness. The flowers here are extraordinary — the Big Island’s orchid and anthurium farms supply most of the lei and flower markets in the state, and Hilo’s neighborhoods are thick with plumeria, heliconia, and ginger growing wild along the roadsides.
The downtown is genuinely worth wandering. The historic buildings along Kamehameha Avenue and Haili Street date to the late 1800s and early 1900s — a mix of Japanese and Hawaiian plantation-era architecture that has been preserved rather than replaced. The Palace Theater hosts live performances. Local galleries and bookshops occupy storefronts that elsewhere would be boutique hotels.
What To Explore
Waterfalls, lava fields, astronomy centers, ancient valleys — Hilo is surrounded by the most varied concentration of natural wonders on any Hawaiian island.
What should you do in Hilo?
Rainbow Falls (Waianuenue) — Five minutes from downtown, an 80-foot waterfall plunges into a natural pool surrounded by lush tropical vegetation. Visit in the morning when sunlight through the mist creates the namesake rainbow. Free. Easy paved overlook accessible to all mobility levels. The natural lava rock cave behind the base of the falls is visible but not accessible.
Akaka Falls State Park — Fourteen miles north on the Hamakua Coast. A 0.4-mile loop trail through tropical forest leads to two waterfalls: Kahuna Falls (100 feet) and Akaka Falls (442 feet), one of the most dramatic in Hawaii. The gorge view of Akaka thundering through dense green jungle is stunning. Cost: $5/vehicle. Allow 30–45 minutes.
Hilo Farmers Market — Wednesday and Saturday 6am–4pm near the corner of Mamo and Kamehameha. Over 200 vendors. The Saturday market is the main event. Tropical fruits, fresh poke, hot food from multiple cuisines, orchids, local honey, macadamia nuts. Cash preferred though many vendors take cards. Budget $10–20 for a full breakfast.
Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park — Forty-five minutes south via Highway 11. The most continuously active volcanic landscape in the world. Day passes $30/vehicle (valid 7 days). See the dedicated Volcanoes National Park guide for details. Worth at least a full day, preferably two.
Liliuokalani Gardens — A 24-acre Japanese formal garden on the Wailoa River near Hilo Bay, the largest Japanese garden outside Japan. Pagodas, arched bridges, and tranquil ponds within walking distance of the waterfront. Free. Most beautiful in the morning before wind picks up.
Imiloa Astronomy Center — The center connects Hawaiian celestial navigation traditions with modern telescope science through interactive exhibits, a full-dome planetarium, and bilingual Hawaiian-English displays. Remarkable institution. $18/adult. Allow 2 hours. The planetarium shows are excellent.
Waipi’o Valley Lookout — One hour north on the Hamakua Coast. The lookout at the valley’s rim reveals a dramatic 2,000-foot-deep valley with a black sand beach, taro farms, and waterfalls visible at the far end. The 4WD road to the valley floor is restricted — take a guided shuttle ($60–80) or view from the free lookout.
Mauna Kea Summit — One hour from Hilo via Saddle Road to the summit access road. The 9,200-foot Visitor Information Station is accessible to any vehicle and hosts free nightly stargazing. The 13,796-foot summit requires 4WD. See the dedicated Mauna Kea guide for details.
- Getting There: Fly Hilo International Airport (ITO) direct from Honolulu, or rent a car from Kona and drive Saddle Road (2.5 hours, stunning). Rental car is mandatory once in Hilo — no meaningful public transit.
- Best Time: April through September is Hilo's drier season. Mornings are drier than afternoons. The Merrie Monarch Festival during Easter week fills every room in town — book a year ahead or avoid entirely if you want accommodation options.
- Money: Hilo is the most affordable major destination on the Big Island. Hotels start at $120/night vs. $350+ on the Kona side. Budget $85–180/day mid-range including Volcanoes Park entry.
- Don't Miss: The Saturday Hilo Farmers Market. Not for the produce photo opportunities — for the hot food stalls. The best $10 meal in Hawaii is a plate of Filipino adobo or Hawaiian loco moco from a Mamo Street vendor at 8am.
- Avoid: Trying to swim at Hilo Bay beaches — the ocean on the east side is rough with unpredictable currents. Save swimming for the Kona side's protected coves. Hilo's pleasures are waterfalls, gardens, and food, not beach days.
- Local Tip: The loco moco at Cafe 100 costs $7 and feeds you for half a day. This is the original — invented here in 1946 when a group of teenagers asked for something different, affordable, and filling. Eating one in the birthplace city matters.
The Food
The Big Island's most diverse food city — Japanese, Filipino, Hawaiian, and Chinese cuisines blend into something distinctly Hilo. Budget traveler's paradise.
Where should you eat in Hilo?
- Cafe 100 — Birthplace of the loco moco. More than two dozen variations on the classic rice/burger/egg/gravy formula. Some under $7. Outdoor only, cash preferred, zero atmosphere, completely essential. Open 6:45am daily.
- Suisan Fish Market — Fresh poke direct from the boats at Hilo Harbor. The most direct farm-to-table in Hawaii: poke made from fish caught that morning. $15–22/pound. Go before noon for best selection.
- Hilo Bay Cafe — Most refined dining in Hilo, with locally sourced seafood and craft cocktails in a waterfront setting. The fish is exceptional. $28–45 mains. Reservations recommended for dinner.
- Moon and Turtle — Creative small plates in a cozy downtown space. The menu changes based on what’s available locally. One of the best dinner options in Hilo for adventurous eaters. $22–38.
- Ken’s House of Pancakes — The Big Island’s only 24-hour restaurant, beloved for late-night meals and all-day breakfast. Generous portions, local prices. $10–18.
- Two Ladies Kitchen — Famous for mochi filled with tropical fruits and Japanese flavors. Tiny shop with enormous queues on weekends. Get there early or call ahead. Under $3/piece.
- Puka Puka Kitchen — Local lunch spot with excellent plate lunches, poke, and Hawaiian comfort food. The kalua pork plate is outstanding. $10–16.
- Hilo Farmers Market Food Stalls — Multiple stalls on Wednesday and Saturday mornings serving Thai, Filipino, Hawaiian, and Japanese hot plates. The best cheap eating in Hilo without question. $6–12 for a full meal.
Where to Stay
The Big Island's most affordable accommodations, with waterfront hotels at a third of Kona's resort prices. Your base for the volcano, the stargazing, and the lush east coast.
Where should you stay in Hilo?
Hilo’s accommodation is dramatically more affordable than the Kona coast — one of the best arguments for basing here. The city center and waterfront area have the most convenient options for reaching the main attractions.
Grand Naniloa Hotel ($180–260/night) — Hilo’s premier property, a DoubleTree by Hilton on Hilo Bay with ocean views, nine-hole golf course, and a solid restaurant. The best hotel in town at a fraction of Kona resort prices.
Hilo Hawaiian Hotel ($150–220/night) — Comparable waterfront positioning to the Naniloa with slightly lower rates. Clean, reliable, well-located for the farmers market and downtown.
Hilo Bay Hostel ($35–90/night) — The best budget option on the east side of the Big Island. Clean dorms from $35, private rooms from $85. Centrally located in downtown, walking distance to the farmers market.
B&Bs and Vacation Rentals ($100–200/night) — The surrounding neighborhoods offer charming cottage-style rentals with tropical gardens. Several treehouse and jungle B&Bs operate outside town for a unique experience.
Volcano Village Properties ($130–280/night) — Staying in the cool misty village just outside Volcanoes National Park rather than in Hilo gives immediate morning access to the park. Kilauea Lodge and various vacation rentals make this a worthwhile alternative for those prioritizing the park.
Before You Go
Hilo rewards preparation — know the farmers market schedule, the waterfall trail conditions, and the park entry requirements before you arrive.
When is the best time to visit Hilo?
Hilo receives rain every month of the year, which is what makes it so extraordinarily green. The question isn’t whether it will rain, but how much and when.
April through September is Hilo’s drier season — still wetter than any Kona day, but with shorter, more predictable rain showers rather than extended wet periods. Morning visits to Rainbow Falls and Akaka Falls are consistently drier and better lit for photography.
October through March brings heavier, more sustained rain. Waterfalls are at their most dramatic — Akaka Falls in particular gains volume and power after heavy rainfall. The hike to Akaka can be slippery; wear proper shoes.
The Merrie Monarch Festival during Easter week transforms Hilo into the cultural capital of Hawaii. The world championship of hula draws competitors and spectators from across the islands and the mainland. If attending is your goal, book accommodation a year ahead. If your goal is affordable lodging, avoid this week entirely.
Daily timing matters more than season in Hilo. Mornings are consistently drier than afternoons. The farmers market is a morning event (best before 10am). Rainbow Falls in morning light produces its namesake rainbows. Plan outdoor activities from 7am–noon and use afternoon rain time for the Imiloa Center, downtown galleries, or the drive to Volcanoes National Park.
Hilo is never just a destination on its own — it’s a base camp for some of the most extraordinary natural experiences on Earth. Plan your time here around Volcanoes National Park and Mauna Kea, then add the waterfalls and farmers market around them. See all Big Island destinations for the complete picture, or start planning your Hawaii trip to time your visit with volcanic activity reports.